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News, Tech Tips, Updates
Tele-Vue dioptrx for astigmatism correction fitment photos

Hi All,

Here are some images of a simple adaptation I made to my dioptrx to fit my 45 degree prism.  I simply super glued a stainless steel washer on the back.  I think the hardest part is locating the washer - I happen to have a few extra - if you need one just send me an e-mail.  I use the washer technique to make the whole thing easily reversible in just a few seconds in case you decide to wear your glasses or another photographer will use the camera.  

Photo showing back side of retaining ring removed from the Dioptrx (click photo for larger view):

      

Photos showing installation after washer is affixed to retaining ring.  You pull the rubber on the prism eyecup outward and slip the retaining ring over it.  Then you fold up the rubber from the 45 degree prism into the retaining ring.  Lastly you hold the Tele-Vue Dioptrx up to the eyepiece and tighten the retaining ring onto the Dioptrx.  Don't tighten all the way tight - leave a little loose such that you can rotate the dioptrx into the correct orientation.

                  

This is what the Dioptrx will look like from the photographers perspective. Overall it works quite well and since the Dioptrx is a bit larger, extends a bit from the prism and has its own eye cup, its actually a bit easier to view through.  I suggest you focus the camera on something brightly lit and then rotate the dioptrx until the image gets sharp.  You will also see the screen lines get sharp too.  As you are getting close, you will see the vertical lines slope to one side or other - they will straighten when its just right and if you go past they will slope the other direction.  So finding the correct setting is pretty easy. Tighten up the retaining ring when you have it correct.

    

Which power Dioptrx do you need?   Have a look at your prescription for your eyeglasses and find the portion that shows the Cylinder and Axis corrections - that's your astigmatism amount.  Find the one for the eye that you focus with - that's the power of dioptrx you need.  Now if your prescription is mostly astigmatism and you've used a corrective diopter in the eyepiece you may find that you no longer need this.   Or you can order a lower power.  The best set-up is going to be a corrective diopter in the eye-piece that matches your sphere correction value, plus the dioptrx amount for the cylinder amount. Believe me, you'll be surprised by how well you can focus!  I quit using AF after I got this set up for myself. 

Q/A How can I get to 1::1 magnification with either the 90mm apo or the 150mm apo makro?

I've just got this question and have decided to share on the blog when it might be helpful.   Rollei makes and made quite a variety of amazing macro lenses and accessories and there are really a lot of different options to get in close on your subjects.   They even put out a handbook that covers all of these in great detail.  If I am able to make the handbook available as a download from the shop I will do so - but in the mean time feel free to e-mail me for specific info.

Here's a run down of some of the macro tools:

  • Bellows Extension - 68-268mm
  • Vario Extension Tube  22-68mm (works with most bay VI lenses or those with narrow barrels)
  • 9mm, 17mm, 34mm, 67,68mm Extension tubes
  • Retro adapter - to use a lens in reverse with auto functions
  • M39/M40 Behind the lens adapter (no longer in production AFAIK)
  • X-Act2 Technical Camera + lens in electronic shutter or regular lens with lens adapter
  • Use of 1.4x extender gets you higher magnification since the minimum focusing distance doesn't change

Finally getting to the specific question:  

The 90mm apo macro gets you to 2::1 without any tubes and almost reaches 1::1 with the 34mm extension.  With the 68mm tube, it can get to 1::1.24 magnification (image captured larger than life size).  


The 150apo macro gets you not nearly anywhere as close even with the 68mm tube - just to 16.9::1 actually.    If you have the bellows unit all the way extended then you can reach 1::1 with the 150apo macro.  

 

There are three reasons why it takes much more extension than the 90.  1) Its a true lens with no retrofocal element so just to reach infinity it needs 150mm from the film plane.  2) Its a lot longer than the 90mm so it takes extra mm of extension just to get to where the 90 was starting.  3) The 90mm apo lens has a really long travel and lots of focus ring rotation.  


If you want to get higher magnification, you can get the extension bellows and mount the 90mm on it. The bellows gives you 268mm of extension, plus you could also mount your extension tubes on the bellows or even before it to get more.    If you need really high magnification, then rollei has you covered.   Just get a m39/m40 behind the lens shutter adapter and mount and of the shorter M-componon's, Leica Photars, or Zeiss luminars on it.     You can approach microscope magnification levels this way and take images of cells on a butterfly wing and things like that.   But wait, there's more.  You could also use the retro adapter and reverse mount a lens. This gets you very high magnifcation as well.   

 

Scales on a dead butterfly wing that I found.