They are officially no longer in production, however I just received two brand new 6008AF body kits from the factory.

Kits include:

• 6008AF body with WLF
• Film Back
• C type charger
• New battery
• Grip arm
• Neck Strap

PS.  I also have a brand new 150mm PQS Sonnar lens as well!

Here is a little bit of information that I think might be useful for those shopping for focusing screens:

 All the Rollei TLRs with non-interchangeable hoods can take the same size screen (56 mm x 62.5 mm, vertical orientation) by the use of the appropriate spacers (that I include with the installation kit for the particular model).  Those are the Rolleiflex models E, D, C, B, A, all Automats, all PreWWII models (except for the very first model which used 616 film, which requires a special size screen); the Rolleicord models I, II, III, IV, V (also called Va).

All the Rollei TLRs with interchangeable hoods (prior to the GX) take the same size screen (64 mm x 68 mm).  These are the Rolleiflex models E2, E3, F, F12/24, T, Wide Angle Rollei, Tele-Rollei, RolleiMagic, and the Rolleicord Vb.  Also, some non-interchangeable hood models may have been changed to interchangeable hood cameras by repair technicians.

The later Rolleiflex TLR models GX, FX, FW, and FT take a third size screen (55.5 mm x 62.25 mm, horizontal orientation). This is the same size as the SLR cameras from SL 66, SLX, 6000 Series and finally Hy6

Rolleiflex SLR models SL66, SL66E, SLX, the 6000 series cameras, and the Hy6 take the same size screen (55.5 mm x 62.25 mm, horizontal orientation). 

For a long time I had gotten occasionally a funny magenta or purple image with my iXpress or Imacon / Hasselblad digital backs on my Rollei 6008AF body.  I figured that sometimes a file just gets corrupted or hit a bad spot on the memory card or there was a loose cable, but on one occasion I had a number of these purple files in one shoot.       I sent some files to Hasselblad Support a few years back and Paul Claesson wrote a very informative e-mail with the explanation.   

Click the link to read the answer...

Several people have asked me what the differences are between the 6008AF and Integral 2 models, and sometimes people ask about the differences between 6008 Integral 2 and other models.    Ferdi Stutterheim has put together a fantastic table on his Rolleigraphy.org website so all I need to do is point to it.  Thanks Ferdi!    Here it is in case anyone is looking for it...

 Rolleiflex System 6000 on Rolleigraphy.org

Blog Entry: I've re-posted a huge list of lenses that work the Rollei Hy6 and 6000 Series cameras!

 - 47 lenses in all!  That's a lot of options for the camera.  About half of those are still available new.

....Click here to see this list and some links to good sources of lens information....

Rolleiflex History - The company timeline from start to present.

I pulled this time line from one of DHW-Fototechnik's brochures and thought it was interesting.

1920 ■ Paul Franke and Reinhold Heidecke establish the “Werkstatt für Feinmechanik und Optik – Franke und Heidecke“ in Brunswick, Germany. 

1926 ■ First use of Rollei name in conjunction with Rolleidoscop stereoscopic roll-film camera. 

1928 ■ Presentation of first twin-lens Rolleiflex, a roll-film mirror-reflex camera (10 prototypes). 

.... click this link to the jump to the blog post and see the rest....

Even though I have two digital backs for my Rollei's, I still shoot a lot of film.  Film is great fun, and still has some qualities in look, color and feel that can be hard to get with digital.  IMHO - The biggest downside to film is getting it scanned.   I use my Rollei 6008AF and CF 528 digital back (multishot) to 'scan' my negatives.   In the picture from my cell phone, you can see a quick snap shot of my set-up.   I have the 6008AF on a copy stand with a light table under it.  Mine is a Kaiser eVision that has the light table built in. Obviously you could use any camera and light source, but its important to use a flicker free light or one that has a high frequency ballast so you don't get dull spots in part of the frame.  Typically I set my lens aperture to about f/11.  This gives me sufficient DOF (mostly for focusing errors but also in case the film bends under the heat of the light) but avoids diffraction losses of smaller apertures.   I used to use a bowen's illumitran slide copier for this purpose.  It has a built in flash under neath and a focusing light.  The flash makes for much shorter exposures and probably has higher CRI too.  I guess I'm just too lazy to set it up every time.   I use an enlarger negative holder to hold the film strips in place under the camera so I don't have to waste time getting them into place.  I just slide the film through frame by frame.  I have a Schneider enlarging lens fitted to the Rollei M39/M40 shutter adapter but sometimes just use the Rollei 90mm apo makro lens with extension tubes.  In the picture, I am have set this up to scan color film (Portra 400) which has a orange carrier.  The orange makes it hard to adjust color wise so I have made myself a blue filter to neutralize the carrier.  I did this by shooting the orange carrier, sampling the color and making a solid layer of that color and inverting it in photoshop.  I printed this blue onto a clear transparency film.  Sounds hard but was very simple.    I use a filter called color perfect to handle the color 'scans' after that.  I can 'scan' several rolls of film in about 30 minutes this way. I think traditional scanning would be many times longer at least at the resolution I get.